Easter in Frigiliana
Holy week is celebrated everywhere in Spain, and Frigiliana is no exception. However the
occasion is quite unique and very special. The two most important days are Good Friday,
the day of the crucification, and Easter Sunday, the resurrection.
On both occasions Frigiliana hosts a major procession as part of the "Semana Santa".
Good Friday
The celebration of Easter in Frigiliana actually starts with processions and special masses on
the Thursday, the day before Good Friday.
Most people start their Easter holiday in Frigiliana on the Wednesday
night, so very few businesses (and shops) are open on Thursday and Friday.
On Good Friday, at 24:00 (midnight) all the women of Frigiliana gather
in a processional line, starting at the San Antonio church (4 minutes walk from the apartment).
Each woman is dressed in black, wears a veil and carries a candle.
All the lights in Frigiliana are extinguished and the procession, slowly winds
its way through the narrow streets, carrying the statues of the crucified Christ and the Virgin de los Dolores
(The Virgin of Sorrow).
before it.
It is the role of the men of Frigiliana to carry the extremely heavy and ornate statues around the whole village.
The co-ordination and strength required necessitate a strict training regime throughout the year.
The simplicity and solemnity are emphasised by the slow chanting of a solemn incantation. The whole event is intensely moving, and unmissable if
you are in Frigiliana during Semana Santa, or Holy Week.
The procession lasts about one hour, but does not always start on time (this being Frigiliana!). However, it is well worth the wait, to witness a truly memorable celebration of belief.
Easter Sunday
As you would expect, the Frigiliana procession on Easter Sunday is completely different. Easter Mass is celebrated at the
church at about 11:00 and the procession is scheduled to start at Midday with the triumphant
entrance of the risen Christ and the Madonna at the church door.
Because of the large number of people from Frigiliana participating in the procession, organisation takes some time and it is rare for everything to start on time.
Large crowds of on-lookers gather to watch the day's events, so if you wish to get a good view it is advisable to arrive at the church square in Frigiliana early, and maybe grab a table and a cup of coffee at the Sacristan restaurant.
The procession commences with the assembling of the Frigiliana band, comprising children of various ages. Next the various 'brotherhoods', each in distinctive costume and carrying various devotional banners, gather in a pre-ordained sequence.
Eventually someone decides that everything is as it should be; the band strike up a triumphal tune and the whole of Frigiliana
follows the two statues; Christ The Risen and The Virgin of the Dawn (La Virgin de la Aurora) as they make their way to the centre of Frigiliana.
Once the procession reaches the centre of Frigiliana the two statues are raised from the shoulders of the bearers and hoisted as high as fully extended arms will reach in a final, rousing celebration of the occasion.
What happens now is quite amusing. Twelve of the Frigiliana men have been dressed up as the apostles, complete with individual
face masks and gowns.
They have played their role with all much seriousness, and kept in time with both band and marchers.
Now it is as if they have been released from their roles.
Animated conversation starts, masks are lifted and cigarettes offered, accepted
lit and inhaled, to celebrate the conclusion of another Frigiliana Easter procession. It's quite a sight - seeing the apostles lighting up!
We enjoy Semana Santa in Frigiliana so much that we frequently use the apartment so it is sometimes unavailable for renting in Easter week.
However, if you send me an email I will respond with other recommendations to enable you to experience Easter in Frigiliana.
To return to an overview of the apartment click Frigiliana home page.
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